On deck at 7.30am for the first sight of land to the south – Desolation Island, in the South Shetland islands. Light snow, dozens of giant petrels following the ship, and an abundance of long lenses with shivering parka-clad owners wishing they'd brought three pairs of gloves.
We've just passed an iceberg with a few dozen penguins at its base, and are sailing around the north of Deception Island towards Bailey Head (home to 100,000 pairs of chinstrap penguins). Sea conditions permitting, we'll be going ashore in a few hours – I hope my military-grade uber-wellies really are waterproof...
