Another uncharacteristically calm, bright and sunny day in the Weddell Sea: the ship was still wedged in the fast ice, so this morning we all wandered off across the frozen surface of Erebus and Terror Gulf, between James Ross Island and Vega Island on the eastern side of the Antarctic Peninsula. Several Crabeater Seals (which don't eat crabs) were lazing on the ice by the ship, and occasional squadrons of Adelie penguins (which don't eat in a deli) strolled nonchalantly past while I messed about unconvincingly with tripods and wide-angle lenses.
By lunchtime we were back aboard: the ship reversed out of the ice, rammed into it again for fun and video purposes, and then turned north. The planned route is back up the coast of the peninsula, through Iceberg Alley (again), to Elephant Island. When I went below deck for lunch it was sunny, still and not particularly cold. When I went out again 20 minutes later, in response to another Emperor penguin sighting, it was snowing, blowing a gale and VERY cold. This place is Michael Fish's worst nightmare...
There was indeed an Emperor on an ice floe, with an Adelie standing nearby to give a handy size comparison. Adelies are about 60cm high; Emperors are three times bigger, huge great things that look like elephant seals in penguin costumes. The captain did another grand job of sneaking up on it so we got some reasonable photos, blizzard conditions notwithstanding.
The sea this evening is decidedly hilly, and strewn with growlers (very small icebergs) so the National Geographic team have been regaling us with tales of shipwreck and disaster. Nice...
